My name is Jon and I live in Los Angeles. I've visited Japan a lot so that's what this blog is about...visiting Japan, Japanese history and samurai movies.
Daibutsu, Kamakura
Daibutsu in Kamakura, June 2010. There were thousands of school kids visiting that day. It was still great fun.
Friday, May 11, 2012
1000 Samurai in Nikko
Friday, September 16, 2011
Otawara Lord's Residence?
Thursday, February 10, 2011
Tour of Duty: Samurai, Military Service in Edo
Alternate attendance (sankin kotai) was one of the central institutions of Edo-period (1603–1868) Japan and one of the most unusual examples of a system of enforced elite mobility in world history. It required the daimyo to divide their time between their domains and the city of Edo, where they waited upon the Tokugawa shogun. Based on a prodigious amount of research in both published and archival primary sources, Tour of Duty renders alternate attendance as a lived experience, for not only the daimyo but also the samurai retainers who accompanied them. Beyond exploring the nature of travel to and from the capital as well as the period of enforced bachelorhood there, Constantine Vaporis elucidates—for the first time—the significance of alternate attendance as an engine of cultural, intellectual, material, and technological exchange.
Vaporis argues against the view that cultural change simply emanated from the center (Edo) and reveals more complex patterns of cultural circulation and production taking place between the domains and Edo and among distant parts of Japan. What is generally known as “Edo culture” in fact incorporated elements from the localities. In some cases, Edo acted as a nexus for exchange; at other times, culture traveled from one area to another without passing through the capital. As a result, even those who did not directly participate in alternate attendance experienced a world much larger than their own. Vaporis begins by detailing the nature of the trip to and from the capital for one particular large-scale domain, Tosa, and its men and goes on to analyze the political and cultural meanings of the processions of the daimyo and their extensive entourages up and down the highways. These parade-like movements were replete with symbolic import for the nature of early modern governance. Later chapters are concerned with the physical and social environment experienced by the daimyo’s retainers in Edo; they also address the question of who went to Edo and why, the network of physical spaces in which the domainal samurai lived, the issue of staffing, political power, and the daily lives and consumption habits of retainers. Finally, Vaporis examines retainers as carriers of culture, both in a literal and a figurative sense. In doing so, he reveals the significance of travel for retainers and their identity as consumers and producers of culture, thus proposing a multivalent model of cultural change. (University of Hawai`i Press)
Tour of Duty is one of nearly 200 books submitted for the 2011 International Convention of Asia Scholars (ICAS) Book Prize. The book is currently in second place with online polling taking place until March 20th. If you read this excellent book and enjoyed it like me, please go to the ICAS website and place your vote for Tour of Duty by Constatine Vaporis.
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Sakamoto Ryoma and the Meiji Restoration
I am not going to detail the events of the Bakumatsu that Jansen covers in the book since these events are already so well known. I will highlight some interesting points I took from the book and use the book to try and answer some questions about Sakamoto Ryoma. It would be an understatement to say that Sakamoto Ryoma is one of the key figures in the Meiji Restoration period. Sakamoto Ryoma is a political hero in Japan and even a celebrity star. You can find his name and face everywhere. His grave site in Kyoto is a popular destination and although Nakaoka Shintaro is also buried there, visitors often leave with Sakamoto Ryoma merchandise which they purchase nearby. I am pretty sure there are not too many people buying Nakaoka Shintaro merchandise. This raises questions such as why is the popularity of Ryoma so high and is it deserved? How much of a contribution did Ryoma actually make to the events of the time?And how original were some of Ryoma's important ideas?
So does Ryoma's fame exceed his actual contributions during the restoration period? Of course it does. His likeness is everywhere in Japan including on toilet paper and candy wrappers. He is probably the most famous and popular figure in Japanese history. He is far more famous and popular than other Bakumatsu figures, especially Nakaoka Shintaro, even though Shintaro and others probably contributed as much to the restoration as Sakamoto Ryoma did.
Friday, March 26, 2010
150th Anniversary of 1st Japanese Embassy to America
Newspapers reported on the visit to the smallest of details and reflected on the popular view of the time at how awed these visitors would be as they encountered Western civilization and American progress. However, that outlook changed when the stately, and always polite, Japanese ambassadors occasionally encountered rowdy crowds who mobbed them to get a glimpse of the exotic Japanese. Dismayed by these unseemly popular displays, some editorials began asking just who was really more "civilized".

Thursday, December 17, 2009
The 47 Loyal Samurai
- Asano Naganori showed concern neither for the reputation of his house nor the fate of his family and retainers when he attacked Kira. Asano should have known that attacking a Shogunal official in the Shogun's castle was a grave offence that likely would result in his death and the destruction of his house and confiscation of his domain thereby destroying the livelihood of his loyal retainers.
- Asano was a student of Confucian scholar Yamaga Soko, whose principal teaching was that in peacetime the samurai "should set a high example of devotion to duty." However, although apprenticed to Soko in the military arts, Asano showed a marked lack of samurai spirit as well as a lack of sword skill in his attack on Kira. Asano attacked Kira from behind while Kira was engaged in a discussion and Asano did not succeed in killing Kira. This showed neither courage nor ability.
- There is no evidence in legitimate historical documents that shows that Kira Yoshinaka was the villain so often portrayed that would justify an attack on him in the Shogun's castle. But Kira had to become the villain in order to make the story of the 47 Loyal Ronin what it was. Little is ever mentioned of Kira's 40 year service in a responsible government position, only that he was a greedy official who gravely insulted Asano. Both of which there is a lack of evidence to support.
- It has been argued by some that since the 47 Ronin knowingly violated the law of the Bakufu when they attacked Kira's mansion, it was absurd for the samurai to notify the authorities on completion of their crime with the message that they were now awaiting their orders rather than immediately committing seppuku. This leads some to suspect that the driving force was NOT the revenge of their dead lord but the hope that praise and admiration for this act of "loyalty" would secure them a pardon and reemployment elsewhere. If they had not expected to live, why did they not disembowel themselves immediately on completion of their revenge?
- With a year and a half between Asano Naganori's death and the slaying of Kira, some had wondered whether the revenge was really a priority of Oishi Kuranosuke, the chief retainer of Asano Naganori. Of course the story goes that it was all part of Kuranosuke's plan to lull Kira into complacency. Yet the point has been made of the elaborate preparations for the attack in the dead of the night, after Kira's staff was tired out by entertaining guests and when snow muffled the footsteps of the attackers. Some contemporaries such as Sato Naotaka and Dazai Shundai thought such trickery was unworthy of a samurai.
- Kira, according to his income, was a man of lowly hatamoto status. The fact that 16 of his retainers were killed in the attack, while only 4 attackers received relatively light wounds, indicated that this was an unequal battle. The large loss of life among the Kira retainers and servants could have been avoided in a spirited day-time attack on Kira on the open road by just a few men in traditional samurai fashion. In such an assault the attackers would, however, most likely have been cut down immediately afterwards and the chance of a pardon lost. The Bakufu's charge against the 47 Ronin after the incident explicitly mentions the use of projectile weapons which could mean anything from arrows and catapults to firearms. It may well also refer to spears. This clearly gave the attackers an advantage against the Kira retainers who were probably only armed with swords.
- Consideration should be also given to the public emphasis on loyalty and filial piety. The 47 Ronin certainly must have been aware that at times Shogun Tokugawa Tsunayoshi would overturn decisions of his officials to heap praise and rewards on people who in his opinion had lived up to these ideals particularly well. The suggestion that the Ako samurai did not commit suicide but gave themselves up to the authorities in the hope of being singled out for such shogunal praise was not altogether unlikely at the time.
- When the loyalty of the 47 are referred to, it is of course the loyalty to their immediate lord, for Asano's retainers had disobeyed the laws of the bakufu in order to discharge their duties towards their lord.
The picture that emerges from the story of the 47 Loyal Ronin is that of desperate men trying to survive in the maelstrom of change. With an abrupt discrediting of traditional values, the 5th shogun attempted a major paradigm change. This must have produced feelings of helplessness and confusion in the minds of many samurai as they attempted to make their way in this changed environment with its fundamental revision of the traditional value system. The Ako samurai came to symbolize this suffering as men from a nostalgic past, as battlers against the harsh government of the day that was intent on destroying their cherished values. Their summary death ordered by an unpopular shogun permitted quick deification. To complete the process of creating larger-than-life-size images, any human foibles had to be shed. Every part of their action came to be uncritically accepted as serving a greater public good, and those that appealed to an examination of the facts were in turn accused of delusion.
Monday, December 14, 2009
Samurai Misconceptions
With books titled "Hagakure: The Book of the Samurai" and "Budo Shoshinshu: The Code of the Samurai" flooding the market, one generally comes to think that the samurai ALL followed the Bushido, or else they weren't really samurai. This just isn't the case.
Bushi-do is correctly translated as "The Way of the Warrior". However, the Bushido was nothing more of an invention of the Edo Jidai (Edo era) meant to keep samurai subservient to their employing daimyos. The Edo Jidai was the 250 year long peace ruled over by the last shogunate (Tokugawa Shogunate), which directly proceeded the Warring States era (better known as the Sengoku Jidai). The shogunate was very paranoid during this period; it was, after all, the third shogunate, the first two having collapsed into warfare. Several new practices came into play during this time period; for example, daimyo were expected to spend part of their time in Edo (now known as Tokyo), the seat of the shogunate's power. This was to keep unruly daimyo (like Shimazu or Mori daimyo, who would later tear down the shogunal government) in check.
Another practice was a serious enforcement of a samurai's loyalty to his daimyo. During the Sengoku Jidai, there were several instances of samurai turning on their daimyo, most often to disastrous affects. The shogunate made turning on one's daimyo the most serious offense for a samurai.
Also, during this time of peace, the samurai no longer had as much purpose in Japanese society. They became administrators and small time government officials. With this pretty much 'excuse' for existence, a ronin named Yamaga Soko took the Confucian principals that had been governing Japanese life for centuries and gave the samurai a new reason for existence. Soko's codices later became the foundation for the bushido, which received great support from the shogunate. The shogunate was looking for ways to insure that the samurai did not rise up against their daimyo. As one of Soko's rules was a complete, sincere devotion to one's feudal lord, this fit perfectly into the shogunate's paranoid attempts to suppress all possible revolts... and it worked.
Samurai before the Edo Jidai did NOT follow any "Bushi-do", then. In fact, there are so many examples of betrayal, uncouthness, and other acts completely contrary to the bushido in the Sengoku Jidai that it becomes glaringly obvious. This isn't to say however that there weren't noble samurai. In fact, Uesugi Kenshin is renowned for his honor in his battles with Takeda Shingen in the late 16th century.
Saturday, November 21, 2009
Samurai Assassin

On a snowy spring day in 1860, throngs of men gather at the gates of Japan's Edo Castle in hopes of assassinating Shogunate leader Ii Naosuke. Upset with the way his life is going, ronin Niiro Tsuruchiyo (Toshiro Mifune) becomes involved in the coup, ultimately seeking a spot in a great samurai house. With no family to speak of and a broken heart, Niiro has nothing to lose -- and will stop at nothing to become a full-fledged samurai. Will he succeed?
This is an awesome movie. This movie is about one of the major events in Japanese history, the assassination of Ii Naosuke, the defacto head of the Tokugawa shogunate in 1860. The Tokugawa were headed by a child shogun at this time, so Ii Naosuke wielded the real power. And he used that power with bloody efficiency. The Tokugawa had been growing weak for decades and after the American Black Ships sailed into Tokyo Bay in the early 1850s, the Tokugawa's weakness became all the more apparent. But Naosuke was intent on reestablishing Tokugawa supremacy and so he instigated the bloody Ansei Purge. All those he deemed disloyal or a threat, even daimyo lords, were either imprisoned or put to death. A group of Mito samurai felt it was their duty to eliminate Naosuke. And that is what this movie is about. This group of Mito samurai along with other disaffected samurai such as Niiro Tsuruchiyo, plotted to kill Naosuke.
This movie instantly joins my select group of favorite films alongside Seven Samurai, Seppuku and several others. This was a great, great movie. So much better than Shinsengumi: Assassins of Honor which is another film starring Mifune that takes place during the same time period. Samurai Assassin was awesome because it was not just a simple retelling of this event. The movie includes a deeper story about Tsuruchiyo's background that comes to light in a shocking realization at the end of the film. I have seen several great battle scenes in various films involving groups of samurai and this film has one of the best. The final assassination battle involved dozens of samurai in a brutally realistic battle to the death. Incredible. If you are familiar with the historical events of this period, especially regarding Ii Naosuke, then this film will mean so much more. However, if you are not familiar with this time period, this is still an awesome movie to watch. Unlike Shinsengumi, which will make little sense to those not familiar with that period, Samurai Assassin will still be a highly entertaining film even if you do not know the history behind it.
Friday, November 06, 2009
Samurai Spy

Years of warfare end in a Japan unified under the Tokugawa shogunate, and samurai spy Sasuke Sarutobi, tired of conflict, longs for peace. When a high-ranking spy named Tatewaki Koriyama defects from the shogun to a rival clan, however, the world of swordsman is thrown into turmoil. After Sasuke is unwittingly drawn into the conflict, he tracks Tatewaki, while a mysterious, white-hooded figure seems to hunt them both. By tale's end, no one is who they seemed to be, and the truth is far more personal than anyone suspected. Director Masahiro Shinoda's Samurai Spy, filled with clan intrigue, ninja spies, and multiple double crosses, marks a bold stylistic departure from swordplay convention.
Ibun Sarutobi Sasuke is the Japanese name of this film. This movie takes place 14 years after the great battle of Sekigahara in 1600 and in the days and months leading up to the final ultimate battle between the Tokugawa and the Toyotomi in the Battle of Osaka in 1614. Samurai Spies and ninja from both sides are battling it out in constantly shifting alliances. No one can be sure whose side any person or group is on. Sasuke is tired of the wars from the past but he is unable to avoid being drawn in.
Although the title is not very creative, this is a pretty damn good movie with many plot twists and surprises. It's unfortunate that they couldn't come up with a better name for Western audiences so people would not think this is just some corny samurai/ninja flick. There are some very good sword fighting scenes involving both samurai and ninja. The ninja action was not cheesy or silly at all. In fact, one of the final combat scenes between Sasuke and two ninja was pretty damn cool with just the right amount of violence and gore without making it a goofy chanbara scene. I really liked the mix of samurai and ninjas and the ninja were not overused in this film so it actually gave the whole espionage aspect a bit of believability in my opinion. It was a more realistic portrayal of espionage, conspiracies and political power struggles than some other movies I've watched. This film, like many other samurai movies with many characters, really requires you to pay attention closely to keep up with whose who.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Shogun's Samurai: The Yagyu Clan Conspiracy

Following the death of the Shogun, it becomes evident that his death was no accident. He was poisoned because he wanted his second-son to be heir to his throne. A battle between the eldest and his younger brother erupts. Warriors take each side swearing devotion to the prospective lords. The plot to pit brother against brother is secretly being controlled by the Yagyu clan, a group of warriors who have trained the Tokugawa shogunate's family in the art of swordsmanship for generations. A group of Imperial nobles are also secretly pulling the strings of this plot, hoping to weaken the power of the Shogunate and restore power to the Emperor.
This film was released in 1978 and stars Sonny Chiba and Toshiro Mifune. The plot of this movie surrounds the death of the second Tokugawa Shogun Hidetada. The movie is based on what is believed to have been a true rivalry between the real Tokugawa Iemitsu, the eldest son of Shogun Hidetada, and Tokugawa Tadanaga, the second son of Hidetada. In reality, Tokugawa Hidetada had abdicated rule to Iemitsu in 1623 but the movie plays it a different way from historical reality. In the film, Hidetada dies before naming his heir but apparently he had told several people that he planned on naming Tadanaga as his heir going against the tradition of naming the eldest son. The head of the Yagyu clan who was loyal to Iemitsu became aware of this and they did not agree with Hidetada's plan and therefore the Yagyu plotted to do something about it. So they assassinated Hidetada.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Samurai Resurrection

This movie was released in 2003 and stars Yosuke Kubozuka as Amakusa who has risen from the dead to seek revenge.
In 1637, 37,000 peasants perished in the Shimabara Christian revolt; among them, the leader of that uprising, Shiro Amakusa. More than a decade later, Amakusa rises from the dead hell-bent on revenge. Resurrecting a ghastly army of living dead master swordsman by way of an occult art called "Makai Tensho" (demonic transmigration), he sets his sights on overthrowing the Tokugawa Shogunate. Standing in their way is legendary samurai Jubei Yagyu, who will have to fight the reincarnation of his own father before a fierce final confrontation with Shiro Amakusa himself.
This movie will have more meaning if you have some understanding of Japanese history otherwise Jubei's duel with the dead Miyamoto Musashi will have less meaning or the resurrection of THE shogun himself, Tokugawa Ieyasu, will be won't mean as much. Yes, Ieyasu rises from the dead from his shrine in Nikko. The opening battle scene, although short, is impressive. It is an interesting samurai/horror film although I would have liked to have seen more sword fighting and more intense horror parts. This is film that really requires a beer or two or three or four to fully enjoy.
Sunday, October 11, 2009
The Shadow Hunters

1972 chanbara (sword fighting) flick starring Ishihara Yujiro.
During the corrupt rule of the Tokugawa shogunate, three cold-blooded killers live only to deliver death to their elusive prey--ninjas! These are the Shadow Hunters. A simple task becomes deadly when the three assassins are hired to ensure that a vital deed is safely delivered to Edo. Along the way, ninja, double-agents, and sexy female assassins will team up to deliver a deed of their own--a dirty deed of death to the Shadow Hunters.
This film fits right in with the classic cheesy 70s chanbara flicks including cheesy 70's mustaches, hairdos and music. Add in some decent sword fighting scenes, ninja acrobatics, and a little female flesh, and it all adds up to an entertaining night of movie watching, especially with a bowl of popcorn and some Newcastle Brown Ale. Probably the most entertaining character is Sunlight, one of the Shadow Hunters. Sunlight sports a thick mustache and pimp-like fur coat and spends much of the movie womanizing and flirting. Later, Sunlight takes a spear through the chest like it was mosquito bite. There are a lot of rolling heads and gushing veins in this movie as would be expected but also an extreme scene where a topless female assassin is cut down in a pretty shocking fashion.
Saturday, October 10, 2009
The Sword of Doom (Dai-Bosatsu toge)

This is a 1966 black and white film from director Kihachi Okamoto. The Japanese name of the film is Dai-Bosatsu toge which I believe means "The Pass of the Boddhisattva".
Tatsuya Nakadai and Toshiro Mifune star in the story of a wandering samurai who exists in a maelstrom of violence. A gifted swordsman-plying his trade during the chaotic final days of the Tokugawa Shogunate's rule-Ryunosuke (Nakadai) kills without remorse, without mercy. It is a way of life that ultimately leads to madness. The Sword of Doom is a thrilling story of a man who choses to devote his life to evil.
This movie is marvelously shot in black and white which enhances the grim background of the story. The movie is full of incredible and stunning sword fights, some of the best I have seen in any movie. One of the most suspenseful and awesome duels involved bokken, wooden swords. The tension and suspense as the two combatants stared each other down was edge-of-the seat awesome. It is Toshiro Mifune, who plays sensei Shimada, whose words about the sword being the extension of the soul which is probably responsible for Ryunosuke's final slide into madness and leads to his bloody rampage at a brothel. This movie includes some of the political intrigue of the time with the bloody and violent samurai corps of the Shogun, the Shinsengumi, but the movie is really about the talented but extremely disturbed young samurai. One thing about this movie is the ending, it will shock most people. Some will like it but others will be left saying "WTF" and be disappointed. One of the reasons the ending occurs the way it does is because this film was supposed to be the first of a trilogy but for some reason the remaining films were unfortunately never made. However, this is one of the few films that makes me want to watch it again immediately. It was good, really good. But the very last scene nevertheless had me saying one huge "WTF JUST HAPPENED".
Friday, October 02, 2009
Battle of Sekigahara video
Monday, September 28, 2009
Gojunoto - The five story Nikko pagoda
Saturday, September 26, 2009
Tenchijin episode 32



Friday, September 04, 2009
Taiyuin Mausoleum - Nikko


Saturday, August 22, 2009
Samurai William

A few weeks ago I completed another book, this one called Samurai William. This book follows the adventures of William Adams, the first Englishman to set foot in

Portrait of William Adams
Adams and a group of nearly dead survivors finally made it to

Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu
Though not formally educated, his technical and geographic knowledge was substantial. And his ability with languages was to become a key factor in the subsequent history of
But for
A couple of years after
It was an interesting book and it revealed an aspect of Japanese history that I had not read about yet, that of some of the first foreigners to visit Japan. One thing about the book, although it is a book about the life of William Adams in
The character Blackthorne in James' Clavell's book Shogun is based on William Adams. In August, the town of Shizuoka holds a festival celebrating the event when Adams and his fellow sailors arrived in Japan near Shizuoka.
All in all it was an interesting book though and I learned more about the eventual persecutions of the Christians in



